ESTONIAN RELATIVITY

The Republic of Estonia consists of a mainland and 2,222 islands in the Baltic Sea and has been inhabited since at least 9000 BC. After centuries of successive German, Danish Swedish and Russian rule, the Estonians decided they had had enough and on 24 February 1918, independence was declared. During World War Two, Estonia suffered occupation by The Soviet Union, Nazi Germany, and Soviet Union again, resulting in its annexation. So this folks is why Harry’s mum and dad came to Australia and decided to raise chickens. Oh, and Harry.

In 1987 the peaceful Singing Revolution against Soviet rule began (the Russians had more guns so singing was a good option), culminating with restoration of its de facto independence on 20 August 1991. Twenty seven years ago for those not so good at maths.

Back in the 60’s Harry’s parents purchased a car for the relatives back in “the old country” and this gesture has ultimately led to Great Granddaughter (and Great Photographer) Lyndal winning a grant to go to Estonia and document the gesture. We’re just tagging along for the food sights, holiday, etc. etc.

 

IMG_2360

Lyndal, Sam, Garry, Kerry, Jen and an empty Hat.

First impressions of Tallinn, well it speaks for itself actually.

IMG_2358

Fun Fair for Kids……and adults actually.

 

By the way in 1965 the first school computer in the USSR, Ural-1, was set up in the town of Noo Estonia. Mass usage of computing networks in Estonia appeared in 1989. The first Internet connections in the country were introduced in 1992 at academic facilities in Tallinn and Tartu. Estonia was the first country to use the internet for elections. In the first quarter of 2010, 75% out of 1.34 million people in the country used the Internet. eSTONIA!

And one for Ally and Nick at Kuru Distillery at the mouth of the The Devils Wilderness (orders now being accepted):

IMG_2348

Six Row Barley distilled Estonian Gin. Not bad, not bad at all.

 

 

3 AM.

To coordinate our arrival with the Irons’s in Estonia we have to be on the 0630 (that’s six thirty in the morning for the 24 hour challenged) flight out of Prague and given the dramas getting here we are allowing three hours to to get all the ducks lined up ready for take off so to speak. Further to this we can’t get a direct flight to Estonia (and I was told it was a developed country) so we will be travelling via Amsterdam.  Lyndal and Sam should already be in Estonia and I hope they have found a good Bar with Czech beer as I will need to wean myself off this twelve percent rocket fuel.

Being our last day here we decided to seek out a locale with a variety of architectural styles, nice sculptures and most importantly a bit of quiet away from the tourists. The ideal location for those things is located at Vinohradska 166-178 more commonly known as Olsannske hrbitovy. Here you will find one of the quietest most serene spots in Prague, slight traffic noise is the only clue that you have not been transported to another dimension or existence. Birds sing, leaves fall softly to the ground from overhanging trees which supply shade to ones travel weary body. You could truly choose stay here forever, in fact many have. There are an estimated two million residents here however only about ten percent have been registered with the authorities which makes it a bit difficult to find accommodation.

By the way Olsannske hrbitovy if you hadn’t guessed is a cemetery.

Last pictures from the Czech Republic sorry Czechia:

IMG_2323

 

42 or MAYBE 43

I woke early today after a restless night, half dreaming about the History of The World. Travelling to places like Italy, Czechia and Estonia can do that to you I guess, or maybe you shouldn’t mix dark beer with light beer, or maybe I just didn’t drink enough beer. Anyway being unable to set right the follies of earlier times while asleep particularly those enacted by Church and State I decided that maybe 42 was after all the answer to life the universe and everything (please  refer to The Hitch-hikers Guide to the Galaxy). Secure in my new outlook on life I decided to have a cup of Nescafe which incredibly has 43 beans in every cup……is the coffee trying to tell me something?

As it turned out we went to see a couple of photographic displays and it seems my restless nights sleep pre-empted the subject matter.

Exhibition 1. Josef Sudek – Topography of Ruins Prague 1945.

Sudek took over 400 photos of the ruins of Prague after the allied forces mistook Prague for Dresden and bombed it in 1945.

 

Exhibition 2. Josef Koudelka: Returns.

Including the events of August 1968 and other works. Being a bit over graphic recordings of futile violence I went for a walk while Jen looked at the exhibition.

fullsizeoutput_63f

 

fullsizeoutput_63e

This has been a depressing post so…….. to finish on a high, how about the Prague Beer Bike, a multi seat bike where the punters sit at the bar drinking beer supplied by a centrally located bar tender pedalling their hearts out while the driver navigates the traffic.

IMG_2315

Or maybe we would be better off arming the Rabbit members of the “Bunnies for Unified National Niceness In Europe Squad” or “BUNNIES” as they prefer to be called.

IMG_2310

A “BUNNIE” Ensuring niceness is maintained.

CZECH THE PRICES

Ok beer is cheap in Prague, it has to be when they drink so much of it. However to put things into perspective:

One medium pizza  = 170cz

One Latte = 40cz

One 500 ml. beer = 40cz

Coke 500 ml. = 60cz

One 300 ml. water = 35cz

Tram ride to top of hill on Funicular Railway (cable car) = 18cz

However, and this is the bit that rattles my grunnions….

One SINGLE USE OF PUBLIC TOILET = 20cz (mind you Broom Hilda, the toilet Nazi, pretty much keeps an eye on you to make sure things go as they should). As Derryn Hinch would have said “Shame Shame Shame”. How can you charge so little to fill someone up with beer and then charge so much to recycle it. No wonder our friend Minushka Dolejsi changed her name and moved to Australia. You can run but you can’t hide.

I should note that the prices above are if you eat and drink with the locals, go to the tourist areas and you can double these prices and add a bit for good measure, pretty much like everywhere else on the planet.

So we went up the hill today:

IMG_2301

View from Petrin Observation Tower.

IMG_2303

Looking straight down.

Below:

Memorial to the Victims of Communism showing seven bronze figures descending a flight of stairs. The statues appear more “decayed” the further away they are from you – losing limbs and their bodies breaking open. It symbolises how political prisoners were affected by Communism.

IMG_5442

 

 

 

Looks like they will be building a metronome in Dubai!

By the way we solved the riddle of the beer consumption figures.  Beer is available from just about every shop, in fact it’s difficult to go more than a hundred metres or so without seeing beer for sale. On top of that we spotted these guys doing earth works and apparently the beer companies sponsor the work… complete with umbrellas and everything. The big guy … he’s the guy in charge of beer distrbution.IMG_5389

MORE THINGS FROM THE CZECH LIST.

This post has “R” rated content. If you feel you might be offended then I suggest you look the other way for the next picture.

The Sex Machine Museum with over two hundred and fifty “things” or so they say.

IMG_5151

Well that’s the “R” rated bit out of the way back to proper Prague.

The Czech Republic is one of the most non religious countries in the world it contains just over ten and a half million people with 1.3 million living in Prague.

With a long and diverse political history Czechoslovakia became Czechia or the Czech Republic by way of a peaceful revolution in November 1989 and  returned to a liberal democracy.

In 2006 the Czech Republic was recognised by the World Bank as a “developed country” this coincidentally was about the time McDonald’s, KFC, Burger King and Subway got there greasy fingers in the Chimney Cake Market.

The Czech Republic has the highest beer consumption in the world at 161 litres per person per year. Beer production started in 993 and they have been at it ever since. As a tourist I feel obliged to sample as much of the local product as possible and I have been giving it a good try, however I fear five or six days just won’t be long enough. Maybe I have to get up earlier.

Yes yes, pictures I know.

 

“Czech Musicians” – statues by Anna Chromy’ at Senovážné square. The dancing statues all play different instruments and are blindfolded. They represent the major rivers of the world. The statue with a mandolin represents the Indian river Ganges, the statue with a flute, the Amazon river, the statue with a violin, the Danube and the one with a trumpet, the Mississippi river.

IMG_5299

Rivers

Jewish naive artist and  fervent Zionist Robert Guttmann (1880–1942)

IMG_5212

Robert Guttmann

By the way Belarus Has the highest alcohol consumption in the world by a comfortable margin at about 18 litres per person per year of full strength alcohol. Less comfortable are the eleven percent of the population that are physically dependant on alcohol.

CZECH THIS OUT!

The original plan for Prague had a list of things to do, not a list fixed in stone mind you just a rough sort of list. The kind of list you have when you go shopping, it’s variable depending on what you see, what strikes you as interesting, flavoursome or just totally different so you have to add it to the list. Just like the grocery list we checked it off as we went.

See big Czech Castle and Church……… Czech!

See exhibition of world class photographer……….Czech!

Cecil Beaton social climbing photographer to Monarchs and Stars.

What Cecil Beaton Said of Sir Michael Phillip Jagger :

Lips of a fantastic roundness, body white and almost hairless. He is sexy, yet completely sexless. He could nearly be a eunuch. As a model he is a natural. There are moments when little is said but a few grunts, tough banalities, but much is sensed. I feel he is his real self.”

Mick basically said of Cecil Beaton “…he wore a nice white suit and matching fedora and took pretty good pictures”

 

See Czech Hare Krishna marching band……….Czech!

 

See Loony Tunes Czech political protester………Czech!

 

We also Czeched out these things to day:

 

Ther are lots of statues in Prague, my favourite commemorates Alfredo di Lelio who is credited with the invention of modern fettuccine. According to family accounts, in 1892, Alfredo di Lelio began to work in a restaurant that was located in piazza Rosa in Rome and run by his mother Angelina. Di Lelio invented “fettuccine Alfredo” in 1908 in an effort to entice his wife, Ines, to eat after giving birth to their first child Armando. Our late and great friend Renato Tardiani would  no doubt have been able to confirm these facts.

The statue depicts Alfredo in early attempts at getting the fettuccine “al dente”.

 

fullsizeoutput_62e

Thinks. “I should have stuck with the spaghetti”

 

By the way there seems to be a lot of Chinese visiting Prague. I suggested to Jen that they were Chinese Czeckers but then wondered if that was politically correct? Oh well.

FLY CZECH AIRLINES……GET WASHING DONE FOR FREE.

Good news everybody, when you fly Czech Airlines from Venice to Prague you get your washing done for free! This deal is for a limited time only, that is to say it has to be bucketing down rain and requires the baggage Muppets who load the plane to leave the baggage in the middle of runway number two while they shelter back at the terminal. Venice airport has no air bridges to load passengers so transfer to plane is by bus. If it’s raining they don’t put you on the plane which is logical. Leaving the luggage in the rain however strikes me as borderline moronic, have they not heard of the humble yet very waterproof, not to mention cheap…. POLY TARP. Where’s the Spanish inquisition when you need them!

As a result of the Czech washing regime, the rain (resulting in flight delay) and not too bright shuttle bus driver we finally arrived at our Prague Air bnb at midnight. On the plus side the Accommodation is excellent.

A quick couple of pictures from around Prague:

IMG_2180

Weird panorama of main street. Jen on the right.

 

Tomorrow tourist stuff. Churches, museums, architecture, all the really serious tourist stuff. None of this striking a pose with a selfie stick camera for these culture seekers.

NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED.

We returned the BoBo Mobile to the airport today in advance of our flight to Prague. It might be slow but 30 litres of fuel for 5 days driving, so that’s good, especially if you are a clown on low wages.

Anyway back to the topic for the day……..

The Venetian Crime and Punishment Exhibition.

When it comes to grizzly forms of punishment these guys had it in spades. Whether it be the Council of Ten, which turns out to actually be sixteen (but that could be down to the decimal system) or the Spanish Inquisition you wouldn’t have wanted to upset these guys. Draw a rude picture of the local priest…. that’s a flogging, cuss him…..that’s you’re head gone, be adulterous…… that’s some other bits gone. You get the general gist of what’s going on right?

The Doge and his henchmen (made up of the rich and powerful) kept a very tight rein on all social and moral activities in Venice and had some really inventive ways of keeping the peasantry and the aristocracy for that matter in line. The Spanish Inquisition…. even cleverer!

They say a picture is worth a thousand words so if and only if you are not faint hearted check these instruments of investigation out they are guaranteed to tickle your giblets, bother your toes and generally lead to a full confession….. guilty or not!

ONE LAST CHANCE TO BACK OUT. GO NO FURTHER IF YOU ARE SQUEAMISH………..

O.K. THEN, IF YOU’RE REALLY SURE…….

YOU ARE SURE AREN’T YOU?…….

HERE WE GO THEN……

IMG_2115

The Rack, with rolling spiky bits.

IMG_2166

The put head between blocks and whack with mallet business.

IMG_2135

The Select-a-mask game.

IMG_2144

The Garrotte, now this is a real pain in the neck.

These and many more timber and metal contrivances were used for hundreds of years to punish, extract information and generally tame the non-compliant populous mostly in the name of God and his representatives.

fullsizeoutput_5fc

Probably a page from a contemporary comic book, “The Priest and Doge go to town”.

 

By the way, these days they just use these guys..

img_2104.jpg

SLOVENIAN HILLS AND VALLEYS

Our last day in Slovenia was spent up in the north visiting the the lovely Triglav National Park where we explored Tolmin Gorge (much less crowded than Vintgar Gorge) and Grad Tolmin an ancient Castle atop a hill out of town described by the tourist office as a short walk from the car park. In reality Grad Tolmin is over four hundred metres pretty much straight up, could be there was a language issue in the description, it is a short walk but not and easy one. Anyway both were well worth the visit.

IMG_2091

Panorama from 430 metres up.

 

By the way the Lancia review I promised:

The Lancia, not sure of model because the badge fell off sometime back, did a reasonable job going up and down hills and was only passed once by a push bike. Liberal use of the gear stick ensures slow but continual forward motion and it is possible to achieve something like the recommended road speeds. I feel the addition of a large plastic wind up key to the hatchback would make this an ideal car for Bobo and his friends to perform their highly amusing contrivances while circumnavigating one or even two of the three rings at any half decent circus.

After our last day in the land with language of the superfluous “j” we “motored” back to Venice to catch the “Venice Secrets – Crime and Justice Exhibition” before flying to Prague.

 

IMG_2062

Gourmet Eh!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDIANA JONES AND THE CAVE OF TOURISTS.

Postojna Cave

Graffiti inside the cave dates to 1213 indicating a long history of use. The cave itself is older by many millions of years.

Electric lights were fitted in 1884. Electricity was connected two years later (just kidding, maybe).

In 1872, a train for tourists was added, pushed by the guides while they explained the cave. Obviously jobs were difficult to find in the 1870’s.

During World War One, Russian prisoners of war were forced to construct a bridge across a chasm inside the cave. They cooperated no doubt thinking they could slip out the back while the guards were out eating there kraski zasink (Cured pork neck meat to you and I).

During world War Two, German occupying forces used the cave to store 1,000 barrels of aircraft fuel. In April 1944 this fuel was set alight and the fire burned for seven days, destroying a large section of the cave and blackening the entrance and all the stored World War One surplus kraski zasink.

The cave system is over 24 Klm. long  and runs electric trains to move the tourists as quick as possible (time is money), it has a post office and a gift shop underground. The tour is quick and there is not much time for photography, the underground gift shop being the only stop without a time limit.

All this adds up to a Disney like experience, think “Indiana Jones and the Cave of Tourists” ride.

 

 

Also in the area and included in our “Super Expo Package No.1 with benefits tour” were:

A display depicting the evolution of life on earth, not bad, less visitors. Naturally it included the inevitable evolution of man.

Butterflies nailed to boards and hung on the wall.

 

A cave insect/animal display, interesting and informative. No photos, sorry.

The worlds largest cave/castle experience. Predjama Castle is a Renaissance castle a twenty minute bus ride away with it’s own cave system, we did it in fifteen minutes as our bus driver was obviously in training for the next formula one championship.

IMG_4673

By the way, tomorrow we put the “would be” Lancia to the test and see if it can climb a Slovenian hill without assistance from a cave guide desperate for work. Stay tuned!