Life on the Edge

A four frame history lesson. Sorry.

Frame 1.

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In the beginning was the spear. Fifteen thousand years ago, give or take the first inhabitants of the good old USA hunted and gathered. Killing bison and gathering berries to survive. Life was tough to say the least.

Frame 2.

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One thousand six hundred years ago, almost exactly, a group of hunter gatherers discovered basket weaving. We now call them “basket weavers”. This gave them the ability to carry more stuff than they did before. They also started farming as they had  discovered that corn grows if you plant it and just wait. Life was getting better one moon at a time (no calendar as we know it back then).

Frame 3.

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One thousand three hundred years ago, give or take a tad, the basket weavers began farming more and hunting and gathering less. This made them “advanced basket weavers”. This meant they could stay in one spot, build a fairly permanent shelter and kick back on the weekends. Life was pretty sweet. Take particular note of the house with the ladder.

Frame 4.

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One thousand two hundred years ago on a Saturday the “advanced basket weavers” dragged themselves into the Advanced Pueblo Period. They really had their corn sorted and basket weaving down pat. Life was about as good as it gets.

So what next?

Well the Mesa was quite dry and getting pretty crowded, the water was limited and resources were spread a little thin. The Pueblos had been growing crop after crop of corn for hundreds of years and the ground was starting to feel the effects. Then came the drought……

The Pueblos moved from the Mesa top to the cliffs for security and protection, hoarded their stores and began fighting over the scarce resources. After fifteen thousand years of peaceful living and only a couple of hundred years after getting their act together the corn had hit the fan.

The good news is they had the smarts to realise the situation was untenable and for the most part they moved to Mexico, where life was good. Now of course they are trying to get back north of the border.

So whats the lesson? Too many people to few resources leads to arguments and the need to move on to greener pastures. If it happens again I think I’ll move to, let me see, um,………….Suggestions welcome. After all, I said I was sorry.

Jen at the fort.

Jen at the fort.

A Kiva. General purpose underground communal place. Today we call it the lounge room. Roof removed for easy viewing.

A Kiva. General purpose underground communal place. Today we call it the lounge room. Roof removed for easy viewing.

Jen's foot entering the lounge room.

Jen’s foot entering the lounge room.

Village in the cliffs.

Village in the cliffs.

The sun setting at Mesa Verde.

The sun setting at Mesa Verde.

If These Walls Could Talk…

“They would tell you that for nearly 5,000 years, people have lived in these canyons – longer than anyone has lived uninterrupted anywhere on the Colorado Plateau. Their homes and images tell us their stories. Today, Navajo families make their homes, raise livestock, and farm the lands in the canyon.”

So goes the National Parks description. Well it’s pretty much the case if a little simplistic. Every displaced society has problems and successive generations seem to accumulate more tribulations. That aside we came to see the landscape and take a peek at the past. It was worth the drive.

All photos as usual are click for full size.

The Canyon

The Canyon

The Canyon

The Canyon

Vally Hieghts House

Valley Heights House

Camouflaged House

Camouflaged House

Ruins

Ruins

Ruins

Ruins

Modern Cliff dweller

Modern Cliff Dweller

Autumn in the Canyon

Autumn in the Canyon

 Sun setting

Sun setting

White House ruins

White House ruins

 

 

Got Wood?

The Petrified Forest is known for its fossils, especially fallen trees that lived in the Late Triassic period about 225 million years ago. The sediments containing the fossil logs are part of the widespread and colourful Chinle Formation from which the Painted Desert gets its name.

In short trees fell down and sank in the swamp and by a complex chemical reaction, over a very long time, the cellulose in the wood was replaced cell by cell with quartz and other rock. Other plants and animals ended up the same.

Landscape in the Badlands.

Landscape in the Badlands.

Painted Desert.

Painted Desert.

Painted Desert

Painted Desert

Petrified wood.

Petrified wood.

Tree Trunk.

Tree Trunk.

Gold? No quartz.

Gold? No quartz.

Jen and tree

Jen and tree

A whole bunch of wood.

A whole bunch of wood.

Blue Mesa Badlands.

Blue Mesa Badlands.

Petrified Raven.

Petrified Raven.

Raven Stoned?

Stoned Raven?

Early Critter Bones

Early Critter Bones

Lazy Sunday Afternoon.

As our scheduled trip to Chaco National Park was cancelled due to the road not being up to scratch, requiring four-wheel drive in the dry and armoured personnel carrier in the wet, we opted for the lazy Sunday option. You don’t get much time off when your on vacation so we slept in, did a bit of shopping and headed to the dreaded “Denny’s” for lunch. Jen had the seniors omelette and I had the Alaskan Salmon. Total cost twenty bucks with tip. I should point out that the salmon was, according to the menu, supplied by The Alaska Seafood Company so there is a very good chance that the only Alaskan content was the supplier’s name. Are you riveted yet.

Having had our fill of gastronomic delights we agreed ( yes it happens quite regularly occasionally ) to visit the local park. The parks claim to fame being a “nature walk” around church rock and, on account it being a Sunday and all, we set off. The trail may have been a little rough but at least it was very badly marked. I confess, after some little time, I was beginning to wish I hadn’t decided to bring the Alaskan Seafood Company’s fish along for the ride.  After several attempts we managed to find the trail to the lookout and Jen having conquered her fear of falling to her death took some stunning photographs as usual.

It was unfortunate that while taking a macro shot of some local flowering weed that Jen fumbled and dropped her camera. Fortunately it landed softly so was not destroyed. Not so fortunately the soft landing was very fine sand which immediately swallowed the camera whole, only relinquishing its hold after it had filled all the delicate moovy in and out and zoomy bit’s with grit.

We finished the walk in a little over twice the recommended time, a bit of a record even for us, however I suggest that the odd sign here or there may well have helped cut our travel time.

Returning to town battered but not defeated we went in search of a replacement camera. Five pm Sunday in Gallup New Mexico there are not a lot of camera sellers about. Walmart (everyone cheer and sing the Walmart song, remember the song blog) had the only cameras in town, mainly because they are the only people in town having crushed the opposition with cheap prices and average quality stock. We didn’t buy a camera as the sand logged one still functions albeit with protestation.

By now it’s drink o’clock and guess what else you can’t buy in Gallup on a Sunday. Not even at Walmart.

“Lazy Sunday afternoon

I’ve got no mind to worry

Close my eyes and drift a-

Close my mind and drift away”

Thank heaven for The Small Faces.

The last, sand free, pictures follow……

The Goal. Top Of The Rock.

The Goal. Top Of The Rock.

That's me in the centre next to the tree

That’s me in the centre next to the tree

Church Rock.

Church Rock.

Rock vs. Time.

Rock vs. Time.

View to the Car Park.

View from the top.

How much is that puppy in the window? The one with the great big teeth!

A visit to the displaced wolf and various other critter shelter today turned up some fellow Australians in the form of Dingos smuggled into the USA. Also Red Fox, Arctic and Timber Wolves. It’s a bit depressing to see animals in cages but at least they weren’t put down. They also have wolf/dog crosses that they try to find homes for.

Howlin' Wolf

Howlin’ Wolf

Dingo Tourist

Coyote

Arctic Wolf

Arctic Wolf

Sleepy Wolf

Sleepy Wolf

Nervous Wolf

Nervous Wolf

 

 

Just up the road a piece is El Morro. A reliable waterhole hidden at the base of a sandstone bluff made El Morro (the headland) a popular campsite for hundreds of years. Here, Ancestral Puebloan, Spanish and American travellers carved over 2,000 signatures, dates, messages, and petroglyphs.

El Morro

El Morro

Woodpecker Rock

Woodpecker Rock

Earliest Residents.

Earliest Residents.

Spanish Tourists

Spanish Tourists

English Tourist

English Tourist

Rock Dwellers

Rock Dwellers

Ruins at the top of the Mesa

Ruins at the top of the Mesa

Ups and Downs

Carlsbad Cavern is an enormous cave discovered while early settlers were “harvesting” bat droppings for fertiliser. The droppings were twelve metres deep by the way, so the bats had been there a while. Developed as a tourist attraction (fertiliser removed) the Cavern is 230 metres straight down or a two kilometre walk down a 20 degree slope. “Best Cave” award goes to……..

Model of the Cavern.

Model of the Cavern. Note elevator from visitors centre.

Inside 230 metres down

Inside 230 metres down

Inside. Four kilometres in.

Inside. Four kilometres in.

The Cavern is 95% dry. So it doesn't sparkle as much as some.

The Cavern is 95% dry. So it doesn’t sparkle as much as some.

The walkway in.

The walkway in.

 

Just up the road is Guadalupe National Park. The Butterfield Stage used to run through here delivering mail clear across America from St Louis, Missouri to San Francisco, California. 

Averaging 120 miles a day and running day and night the passengers must have loved it. The mail contract specified 25 days per run so John Butterfield purchased 100 stagecoaches at $1500 each and set up the way stations. The mail was apparently never late. Rain, like today, or shine the mail went through.

Guadalupe Cloud

Guadalupe Cloud.

Guadalupe Dead Tree

Guadalupe Dead Tree.

Guadalupe National Park

Guadalupe National Park.

Walking in the desert.

This place has more unfriendly plants than “The Little Shop of Horrors”. It seems every plant is purpose designed to keep the tourists at bay. Check out this array of nasties…

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Early Comic Books

Long before “Donald Duck’, before “Mickey Mouse”, before “Archie” and even before the earliest comic you can think of, because frankly, I don’t know that many comic titles, there were in the USA (before it was the USA), a group of artists so clever it has taken eons for the comic world to even begin to catch up.

The classic, Lizard and the Lollipop.

The classic, Lizard and the Lollipop.

Pig and Pumpkin's big day out.

Pig and Pumpkin’s big day out.

Very early X men comic.

Very early X men comic. Slightly dog eared otherwise mint condition.

Mary's bad hair day.

Mary’s bad hair day.

Jen at the comic shop.

Jen at the comic shop. She loves the classics.

Second rate modern comic.

Second rate modern comic.

This is the one where the wife drops the dinner but it's OK because the dog gets to eat it.

This is the one where the wife drops the dinner but it’s OK because the dog gets to eat it.

Tweety before Silvester.

Tweety before Sylvester.

Early Roadrunner. Gleep Gleep!

Early Roadrunner. Gleep Gleep!

Pre Bugs Bunny.

Pre Bugs Bunny.

Pre, pre, Bugs Bunny

Pre, pre Bugs Bunny. Ears not yet perfected.

All these and more at the Albuquerque comic shop petroglyph site.

Comic Book Archaeologists are unsure of the meaning of most of the early rock comics. I think they should enjoy them for what they are, a lot of fun just to look at.

Rock Art, Oil, Sheep and Roy

Well we left “San Somewhere” heading for “San Somewhere Else” deep in the heart of Texas. We were heading for Paint Rock through torrential rain on a promise of petroglyphs. Well that didn’t eventuate, as the petroglyph custodians had their answering machine on.

At Odessa we discovered the true meaning of “West Texas Crude”. In short, it is thousands of derricks covering the landscape of Texas like so many mosquitos sucking the precious liquid from the substrate twenty-four seven to feed the ever-increasing need for oil. The sulphurous smell has to be snorted to be properly appreciated.

Mighty pretty country around Odessa

Mighty pretty country around Odessa

Hmm!

Nice Art…… Hmm!

 

At San Angelo we encountered a sheep fetish second only to New Zealand.

Boots And All

Boots And All

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At Wink (childhood home of Roy Orbison) we discovered the Roy Orbison museum (open by appointment only). Roy was born in Vernon Texas by the way.

Roy has left the building. He left in 1988 actually

Roy has left the building. He left in 1988 actually

It’s been a long day.

I forgot not to forget The Alamo

I may have neglected The Alamo a little while getting carried away with the freeway system used to get to it.

Our North American cousins, I call them cousins because they also were once the dregs of some other society requiring relocation to the other side of the world. The Northern Hemisphere dregs unlike us have had a pretty tough time of it with the Spanish, French, English, Native Americans, and even themselves getting in the way of their final incarnation as The United States.

The Alamo story is a very important part of US history and should not be dismissed as a screen play for a John Wayne movie. If not for the efforts of a few the bottom half of the US would be speaking Spanish, mind you quite a few still do.

Alamo Garden

Alamo Garden

Oh, The Yellow Rose Of Cactus do do do do do do"

Oh, The Yellow Rose Of Cactus do do do do do do”

The Alamo.

The Alamo.

Swamp Roads, Cobwebs, Homing Pigeons and Don’t Forget The Alamo.

Leaving New Orleans we cross the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, the longest bridge in the world. Heading west we drive through miles and miles of swamp, that is we drive over miles and miles of swamp. Louisiana is so close to sea level the delta does not drain. With typical US attitude there are miles and miles of concrete freeway connecting the South with the North, East and West.

"The" Bridge.

“The” Bridge.

Swamp Highway

Swamp Highway

Swamp

Swamp

 

Baton Rouge, State Capital of Louisiana boasts the tallest Capital building in the US. This no doubt because it is the lowest state. Commissioned by enthusiastic Governor Huey Long during the recession of 1931 (at a cost of five million dollars) it was no doubt a controversial decision. The building is spectacular to say the least and a great legacy for Huey who unfortunately was assassinated in the building four years later.

Huey's Edifice

Huey’s Edifice

Inside the capital building. The bullet holes are still in the wall.

Inside the capital building. The bullet holes are still in the wall. The brass chandelier are two ton each.

The San Antonio Texas freeway system is diabolical. We stayed twenty kilometres out-of-town and decided to head for the CBD to look at the Alamo. With GPS programmed and iPhone fully charged we set off. We are driving a VW Jetta, so named due to it’s ability to reach jet like speeds very quickly and just as well. The map below is a simplified guide to the San Antonio freeway. I say simplified as it also has an upper and a lower level, one superimposed on the other. I struggle to describe the scenario that takes place in my head when very polite GPS lady continues to insist that I, “keep left and stay in the right lane” then “bear right, keep left, enter the freeway and take the second exit left to the lower level I-10 westbound”. In the centre of San Antonio stands a large building with the State Flag flying on top. The purpose of this building and it’s flag is to give hope to the motorist that they are actually getting closer to town with each “lap of the track” they complete on their homing pigeon like trek to the centre of the universe, sorry, centre of San Antonio.

You take the the first exit right, you take the second exit left, you do the Hokey .......

Cobweb Theorem. You take the first exit right, you take the second exit left, you do the Hokey …….

The Cobweb.

The Cobweb.

The perfect San Antonio freeway vehicle.

The perfect San Antonio freeway vehicle.

The centre of the Texas universe.

The centre of the Texas universe.

Guadalupe River

Guadalupe River

Postscript for Rob Ellis. Top speed for today one hundred and eighty kilometres per hour. We were still passed. I need to try harder.